Reflections on Chicago Show

It is the holiday season so like most of the Western World, I've been taking a little vacation. It is time well spent recovering from the Chicago fashion show, prepping for the next and giving myself space to have some objectivity about the whole thing.

Chicago was nothing if not an experience. I undertook the challenge of fashion-at-a-distance with enthusiasm and great expectation. It was a chance to see my dream become reality in a town where I don't have my usual support network. All things considered, it was definitely a success.

I knew going in that this event would succeed or fail on the strengths of the supporting cast, and in here, this show was blessed with star performances. Some of the major highlights were set and event design, amazing dance/fashion performance, live art by Rex and delicious tasting menu.

The sets which were designed and constructed by Beth Gatza, Alex Lesniewski and Stanley Lesniewski turned out amazing! Beth and Alex really put themselves out there 150% to create a beautiful space and stage. The Orphanage is already inviting, if slightly chaotic. Beth went in and rearranged the furniture to create lounges, a bar and a VIP area which brought some tasteful organization to the space. For the stage, she and Alex created 8ft high light boxes that had tree silhouettes (in line with the whole "tree theme" at the Orphanage). These light boxes also allowed for the dancer's silhouettes to cast shadows which added extra ambiance and beauty. Lastly, was the elegant runway they constructed. Lastly, Beth and Alex teamed up to construct an elegant runway illuminated with under lights to add extra magic to the dancers.

Rex himself brought another dynamic element to the evening. He decorated the whole room with his art, which was so sweet to see in person after all these months of experiencing his art through computer printouts and screens. To me, the ultimate joy of art is being with it, seeing the brushstrokes on the painting, seeing it on the wall, and in context to all the other work.

Among his world of paintings, Rex started the evening painting on a original VAGADU dress/jacket. He accompanied that with a canvas he brought along to simultaneously do a live painting too. This aspect of the event turned out well, as it was yet another part of the evening that people were able to be part of and bare witness to art in progress.

Of course, the zenith of all the hard work and months of labor was the dance performance/fashion show. The dancers; Julie Haller, Allisa Zee Hartmann, Cindy Huston, Myah Shein, Lenah Parsons, Johannah Wininsky, Carlyle Wycykal choreographed by Mary S. Burns, took my heart away with the movement and energy that they brought to the room and the clothing.

For me, the most beautiful aspects of the experience were the last minute changes that conspired to create something different than I had imagined. This was so moving because I saw the event take on a life of its own while becoming reality. I thought the dancers would emerge from Rex's projected paintings, at a certain time to demonstrate the inspiration that lead to the garments evolution. This was not to be. The girls began the dance in the audience in their own attire, danced their way up to the stage and gradually-- one girl at a time--got into their first VAGADU outfit. Eventually, all the girls were in VAGADU designs and running around interacting with each other as different Rex paintings flashed behind them on a slide show. One of my favorite pieces also happened to fit me like a glove so I decided that I should wear it and it would give me an opportunity to be part of the performance that I worked so hard to see to fruition.

Overall, it was a lovely night, one that likely no one will forget. With amazing treats to tantalize the bellies of the guest by Chefrain, a visual spectacle that was a feast for the eyes, and movement bearing clothes that left you feeling like you really experienced Rex and his world expressed by so many other artists through their mediums.





To see more photos click here: Photo set 1, photo set 2, photo set 3.

Rex Flodstrom Collection

Here are some images of the main Rex Flodstrom collection. Photographs taken by John Martin.

The Green Fashion Show

Vagadu is a Green Fashion Project.
Joui Turandot's designs are made from thoughtfully recycled fabrics. Chef Efrain uses cups and serving ware made from corn and other biodegradable materials. All waste from the Chicago Vagadu event will be recycled or composted. We love Chicago and want to keep it green.

Pan Asian Fusion Menu Announced!

Chefrain's Menu...

• Ahi Tuna Tartar, Spicy Ginger Vinaigrette, Wasabi Tobiko, on Cucumber Slice
• “Clouds and Buildings” Okinawa Yam and Beet Gratin, Gorgonzola Creme
• Gyoza Dumplings filled with Fuyugaki Persimmon and Goat Cheese, with Sweet Shiso and Sage Pesto
• Vagadu Temaki Sushi (Served Warm): Risotto w/ Lemongrass, Edamame, and Enoki mushroom, Chestnut Dusted Roasted Salmon, wrapped in Teriyaki Nori
• Green Tea Creme Brulee sweetened w/ Honey, Cardamom Scented Berries
• “Cake and Man” Guittard Chocolate Spongecake w/ Kumquat and Ginger, Bergamot Chocolate Mousse, Beet Powder and Powdered Sugar Silhouettes

The Countdown

Ten days left ‘til Showtime. I arrived yesterday in Chicago and was taken off to the home of my collaborator and Chef-in-Chief Efrain Cuevas. Coming to his pad was actually the first important step finally seeing the space where Vagadu’s debut will be held. The artist collective where he lives is called the Orphanage and historically it was a school for kids. Now it is home for some wayward musicians and a chef ;-). Connected and still very much associated to a Lutheran Church, the Orphanage provides a beautiful showroom for artists and musicians to show off their talents. To me, it is the perfect venue for the Vagadu event. The space currently is set up like a 1940’s cabaret with lush lounging furniture and tables surrounded by strangely decorated trees…I could picture the likes of Anais Nin, Henry Miller and their compatriots finding themselves very much at home.

Charming as it is, there is still lots of work to be done to perfect it for the show. I will be working along side with Beth, our set designer (she does design and construction for commercial and film) to take the space to a new level of beauty as we transform it to a Rex wonderland.

Today was jammed packed with important meetings. Efrain and I rolled out of bed into 22 degree Fahrenheit weather to meet up with our publicist Jennifer from Vanguard PR. After corresponding with her for months, it is fun finally starting to meet everyone who has put such great energy and talent to making the Vagadu debut a success.

After our meeting full of strategy and planning for the crucial few days left to promote the event, Efrain and I zipped over to his web designer Eric’s office (Blueprint Design Studio). We had to give him all information and pictures for our posters, flyers and look books he will be designing. The look books are filled with gorgeous images of almost all of the Vagadu designs that were taken by my friend John Martin. These look-books/catalogues will be displayed at the Dec. 8^th to invite people to view the clothing at leisure and as a guide for purchasing the items as well.

Whew! It is the end of the day and I am tired. Thanks to my terrific team back in San Francisco I can be here taking care of all the last minute details while Lauren and girls are working hard on finishing up the last of the collection plus some fun creative couture pieces that really reflect their own personalities.

In the Dance Studio

chef efrain here from chicago

i had the opportunity to check out a warm-up at hubbard street dance center. choreographer mary burns and dancers have been piecing together movement that will make its way into the runway show and also become its own piece. 

work by rex flodstrom is the starting point for the dancers. 

Clothing Meditation

As the collection gets finished up and the show draws close I thought it would be fun as a team to do some more experimental works, like clothing as stream-of-conscious.
A question that has been on my mind is "how do you create clothing as art?" It is as big a question as the general query "what is art?" but since clothing rarely is included in this conversation, it is comman that people state that their clothing is art but rarely does anyone take them seriously enough to challenge it.

For me personally, within the art-as-clothing movement there should be a distinction of craft versus art. There seems to be a lot of very talented crafts persons who make clothing. They are weavers, embroiderers, fiber arts, dyers etc., and give life to their creative design as beautiful garments and fabrics. The key here is to differentiate design and technique, which are avenues for expressing beauty, efficiency, among other things--and art, which you define yourself.

Well then, what does define an artist? To me, an artist is someone who has deep need to express something from themselves. Within them lies an ever flowing fountain of expression that needs releasing otherwise the artist suffers. Like a fish needs water the artist creates to ease their soul and as my grandfather Jean Varda said, "the artist speaks through God."

Personally, I find myself in a strange position as an artist trying to express my creative visions through the clothing design process. As a designer, I am constantly bombarded by the "final product" mindset. Questions like: Who is your customer? Who will wear this? How will it fit? Will it sell? Are constantly thrown at me. This stifles the creative process because it takes the expression away from the creator and into the hands of a non-existent entity that holds power over the end result. Overall, I don't have any problem with this way of thinking. It is important and valid and produces great clothing. But for those of us who are caught up in a world between art and fashion, a new paradigm must be found.

So, I decided to do a little experiment. I got most of the girls together and the first step was to choose a Rex painting from which to work from. Then, one person starts the ball rolling by grabbing whatever fabric calls to them and starts to sew--which this time was Bennie. Each person takes a limited time to execute an idea 10-15 mins max and then hands it to the next person who goes with whatever inspiration first comes to mind and then hands it to the next person and so on until it is finished or the time runs out and then it is finished regardless. The idea is to feel the design, not analyze it, judge it or think about it too hard. Hopefully a subconscious form emerges and brings new possibilities forth that are normally not allowed to surface.

As usual the project went differently than planned but still allowed us to play with the idea of clothing as stream-of-conscious.

We chose Rex's "Clouds, Mountains, Buildings" from which Bennie was inspired by the buildings to do a bunch of box pleats--you can see her in the image above measuring the pleats. I think she even counted the buildings in the painting as made the same number of pleats. From there, Lauren (below) jumped on by adding a silk scarf and some blue fabric that she attached in a bunchy form.

Next Jennifer added more blue and arranged the piece on the body form into a dress form. As seen in the picture she was first playing with a cow-neck version, which later on you see was changed.

Last in the team, Patty rearranged the fluffy bottom piece and rearranged the top and brought the clothing meditation to a close.

By then it was late, and everyone was tired.

This was a very positive exprience and we learned for next time to try and explain less of their thoughts to the next person. I realize they did this so the following person would know what to do with the piece, but in sense I was really excited to see what would result from the confusion of not knowing and just go with their gut.